Macro lenses: buying guide
Equip yourself with all the knowledge you need to buy the right macro lens for you
Macro lenses come in various focal lengths, but the most common lenses tend to be 50mm, 60mm, 100mm, 105mm and 180mm. What difference does this make? Lots. Firstly, the shorter the focal length, the lower the cost – that rule of thumb applies across all brands, although a fast aperture will push the price up. As well as being cheaper, however, the lower the focal length, the smaller and lighter the lens will be. For example the SEX DG macro lens has an SRP of £499.99 and weighs 460g. So, is a lower focal length better? For your wallet and back yes, but not always for your photography. The most important factor to consider, in terms of photography itself, is that the lower the focal length, the closer you need to get to your subject. If you know you’ll only be shooting static subjects, then it’s not such a big deal but anyone who’s eager to shoot insects and other small creatures should consider spending a little more and going for a 100mm or 105mm lens. It’s seriously frustrating when you’re continuously scaring potential subjects away because you have to get so close igma 50mm f/2.8 EX DG macro lens has an SRP of £319.99 and weighs 320g, while their 105mm f/2.8
If you're serious about capturing the world up close sooner or later you'll feel restricted by your normal lenses and start to think about investing in a dedicated macro lens. This investment will see you discover a whole new miniture world and you'll be glad you took the plunge. Here we provide you will the key features to look for in a macro lens.
About macro lenses
Normal lenses are optimised so that sharpness and contrast get better towards infinity focusing, macro lenses are the opposite – providing brilliant sharpness, contrast and high general image quality up close. Macro lenses are generally bitingly sharp bits of glass, which is why many pro photographers use them as portrait lenses (although sometimes they can be too sharp for this!). As well as the ability to capture truly stunning close-ups, they’re capable of shooting anything else you come across.
Magnification ratio
The magnification ratio, or reproduction ratio as it’s also known, is a crucial feature. True macro lenses offer a magnification ratio of 1:1, meaning your subject will be the same size as the image sensor it was taken on. 1:2 means the subject will be double the height and width and so on. If magnification is less then 1:1, it’s unlikely to be a true macro lens.
Focusing mechanisms
All modern macro lenses have an autofocus facility, but if you’re buying second hand you could consider a manual focus only lens – not a problem for macro, but inconvenient if you want to use it more generally too. Autofocus lenses will either have ‘silent’ motors or older screw-driven ones - you’ll pay more for a silent lens, but it maybe worth it if you’re concerned about noise scaring subjects.
It’s also worth noting whether the lens focuses internally – if it does it won’t extend in length as you change focus, but a variable-focus lens will. This isargely down to personal preference and if you have a sturdy tripod any change in centre of gravity caused by lens movement should be combated anyway.
Vibration Reduction
Is Vibration Reduction important on a macro lens? If you’re planning to use a tripod at all times then no. If you may do some spur of the moment handheld work or are planning to use it generally then you’ll probably want a VR lens.
Focal length
Macro lenses come in various focal lengths, but the most common lenses tend to be 50mm, 60mm, 100mm, 105mm and 180mm. What difference does this make? Lots. Firstly, the shorter the focal length, the lower the cost – that rule of thumb applies across all brands, although a fast aperture will push the price up. As well as being cheaper, however, the lower the focal length, the smaller and lighter the lens will be.
For example the Sigma 50mm f/2.8 EX DG macro lens has an SRP of £319.99 and weighs 320g, while their 105mm f/2.8 EX DG macro lens has an SRP of £499.99 and weighs 460g. So, is a lower focal length better? For your wallet and back yes, but not always for your photography. The most important factor to consider, in terms of photography itself, is that the lower the focal length, the closer you need to get to your subject. If you know you’ll only be shooting static subjects, then it’s not such a big deal but anyone who’s eager to shoot insects and other small creatures should consider spending a little more and going for a 100mm or 105mm lens. It’s seriously frustrating when you’re continuously scaring potential subjects away because you have to get so close…
Posted by Rachael DCruze on Monday, 11th Jan 2010 at 03:56pm GMT.
From my own trials and having moved through three different camera manufacturers systems I can personally recommend the Oly 50mm, Canon 60mm and 100mm usm and also the Nikon 105mm VR.
All of them make beautiful portrait lenses as well as excellent macro's, the Nikon and Olympus in particular have superb colours and sharpness to them. The Bokeh on the Nikon is also spectacular.
#1. Posted on Monday, 11 Jan 2010 at 05:11pm GMT. Report this
Hi I have a Tamron 90mm Di and have been happy with it so far, except when getting close to insects, wasps etc.. I now want to purchase a Nikon 105m VR would this be a relatively good upgrade just for the Vr and extra length ? or is the Nikon a better lens all round ? Should I also consider the 180 instead (I just feel this maybe a bit heavier but does have a better distance to subject - does anyone have this lens as well and can tell me if the weight is a problem and the shutter speed differences having to be faster affect what can easily be captured or missed when the light gets lower or does the VR really help here ?)
Much appreciated for any advice here. regards Nicholas
#2. Posted on Friday, 15 Jan 2010 at 03:15pm GMT. Report this
Sorry just noticed there isn't a 180mm Nikon macro, can you please advice on the 105 vr or any other nikon mount macro 1:1 /portrait lens?
#3. Posted on Friday, 15 Jan 2010 at 03:35pm GMT. Report this
I use the Olympus Zuiko Digital35mm 1:35 and find it quite good for the price. Great portrait lens too. Would reccomend to any Olympus user as this is a very affordable lens.
#4. Posted on Friday, 15 Jan 2010 at 06:09pm GMT. Report this
In the pargraph under the heading 'Magnification Ratio' you state that a ratio of 1:1 means that 'the subject will be the same size as the iamage sensor it was taken on.' I was lead to believe, in 35mm film terms, that a ratio of 1:1 would give a life size image on the negative/slide, not an image the same size as the neagative/slide. Does this not mean that with 1:1 you get a life size image on the sensor, not an image the same size as the sensor? What you are saying is that an image of an ant taken at 1:1 would be as big as the image sensor it was taken on which would be much larger than life size and hence more than 1:1 or do things work differently on digital cameras to film cameras?
#5. Posted on Friday, 15 Jan 2010 at 08:04pm GMT. Report this



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